Bisabolol
Also known as alpha-Bisabolol, α-Bisabolol, (-)-alpha-Bisabolol, Levomenol
“CIR Expert Panel says: safe as used in cosmetics.”
Bisabolol (as the cosmetically relevant (−)-α-enantiomer, CAS 23089-26-1, or the racemic mixture, CAS 515-69-5) has been assessed safe for use in cosmetic formulations by the CIR Expert Panel (1999, reaffirmed 2015). In vitro and in vivo studies support anti-inflammatory activity via reduction of pro-inflammatory cytokines; genotoxicity studies (Ames, chromosome aberration, Drosophila SMART assay) were negative. Dermal toxicity NOAEL was 200 mg/kg/day at a 4% α-bisabolol solution in a 28-day rat study; maximum reported use concentration in leave-on products is 1%.
Anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant activity — reduces pro-inflammatory cytokine production in skin
Soothing agent widely used in sensitive-skin and baby product formulations
Mild skin-lightening effect via inhibition of melanogenesis (inhibits intracellular cAMP elevation)
Naturally sourced from chamomile (Matricaria recutita) essential oil and Brazilian candeia tree (Vanillosmopsis erythropappa) bark; also available synthetic
- · Penetration enhancer activity — may increase dermal absorption of co-formulated ingredients whose safety depends on limited absorption (notably when used with propylene glycol)
- · Case reports of contact sensitization in atopic dermatitis patients at 1–5% patch test concentrations; rare, not seen in general population at cosmetic use levels
- · Cytotoxic to Salmonella TA100 strain without metabolic activation at high in vitro concentrations — not relevant to cosmetic use levels
CIR Quick Reference Table (12/2017, revised 07/2018) — BISABOLOL row: Finding=S, Citation=IJT 18(S3):33-40, 1999
“Bisabolol S IJT 18(S3):33-40, 1999”— QRT-122017revised072018.pdf, p. 13