Ceramide ap
Also known as Ceramide 6 II, CER[AP], N-(alpha-hydroxy fatty acyl) phytosphingosine
“CIR Expert Panel says: safe as used in cosmetics.”
Ceramide AP (formerly Ceramide 6 II; CAS 100403-19-8) is a synthetic N-acylated sphingolipid comprising a phytosphingosine backbone linked to an alpha-hydroxy fatty acid. It is a naturally-occurring ceramide subclass in the stratum corneum and contributes to skin barrier integrity. The CIR Expert Panel assessed ceramides including Ceramide AP in its March 2015 Final Report and found them safe as used in cosmetics. Research literature focuses primarily on biophysical characterisation: Sahle et al. (2013, PMID 23135817) developed lecithin microemulsions achieving targeted delivery of Ceramide AP into the stratum corneum with excellent two-year thermodynamic stability, supporting its use as a barrier-repair active; Badhe et al. (2020, PMID 32583227) built a validated coarse-grained molecular model of Ceramide AP confirming its structural role in intercellular lipid lamellae; Samoylova et al. (2019, PMID 30825421) characterised the hydration behaviour of Ceramide AP-based model membranes under common cosmetic co-solvents, showing structural resilience to urea and DMSO at typical use concentrations.
Naturally-occurring stratum corneum ceramide subclass (CER[AP]); replenishes depleted ceramide levels in dry, compromised, or aged skin
Alpha-hydroxy fatty acid head group may confer mild exfoliating properties alongside barrier-reinforcing activity
Targeted delivery into stratum corneum achievable via optimised microemulsion formulations (Sahle et al. 2013)
Structural role confirmed in intercellular lipid bilayer lamellae by molecular modelling (Badhe et al. 2020)
- · No primary safety concerns identified at cosmetically-relevant concentrations; the CIR Final Report (03/2015) found the ceramide class, including Ceramide AP, safe as used
- · Derived from bovine central nervous system tissue sources is not permitted; synthetic or plant-derived sources are standard in commercial cosmetics
CIR Quick Reference Table (12/2017, revised 07/2018) — Ceramide AP row: Finding=S, Citation=Final report 03/2015 available from CIR
“Ceramide AP | S | | Final report 03/2015 available from CIR”— QRT-122017revised072018.pdf, p. 22