Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
Also known as German chamomile flower extract, Matricaria recutita flower extract, Matricaria chamomilla flower extract, Chamomile flower extract
“CIR Expert Panel says: safe as used in cosmetics.”
The CIR Expert Panel reassessed Chamomilla recutita-derived ingredients in 2016 (Draft Final Amended Report June 2016; published Int J Toxicol 37(3 Suppl):51S-79S, 2018) and concluded that all 11 chamomile ingredients in scope — including Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract — are safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-sensitizing (SQ verdict). The 2016 reassessment reversed prior insufficient-data findings on the broader-plant-part forms (whole-plant Extract, Leaf Extract, Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract) by accepting industry-submitted HRIPT data. Chamomile flower extract derives ~50-65% of its volatile-oil content from (-)-α-bisabolol and chamazulene (the blue distillation product); apigenin, herniarin (a coumarin), and sesquiterpene lactones round out the active fraction. The non-sensitizing formulation condition reflects documented Compositae-family contact-dermatitis risk: Paulsen et al. 2010 (PMID 20557339) identified herniarin as a non-sesquiterpene-lactone sensitizer; the 2002 Paulsen review (PMID 12492516) identified German chamomile among 15+ Compositae species suspected of sensitization, while noting actual sensitization to German chamomile is rare relative to other Compositae. The 2022 El Mihyaoui review (PMID 35454969) documents over 120 constituents and the antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory pharmacological profile that supports the marketed cosmetic claims (soothing, anti-redness, sensitive-skin formulations).
Active constituents: (-)-α-bisabolol (anti-inflammatory, separately CIR-assessed Safe up to 1%), chamazulene (the blue distillation product, weaker anti-inflammatory), apigenin and other flavonoids (antioxidant), terpenoids — combined ~50-65% of volatile oil content (per CIR FR 2016).
CIR-assessed safe (SQ) for cosmetic use across 11 Chamomilla recutita-derived INCIs when formulated to be non-sensitizing (CIR Amended FR June 2016; Int J Toxicol 37(3 Suppl):51S-79S, 2018).
Anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing activity widely documented; supports marketed claims for sensitive-skin, after-sun, and post-procedure cosmetic formulations.
Antioxidant and antibacterial activity documented in topical applications (PMID 35454969 — over 120 constituents identified across antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory mechanisms).
Plant: Chamomilla recutita = Matricaria recutita = Matricaria chamomilla (synonyms; INCI uses Chamomilla Recutita with Matricaria as the parenthetical). German chamomile, Asteraceae/Compositae family. The flower-derived extract is the canonical cosmetic preparation.
Asteraceae/Compositae family cross-reactivity: individuals with documented contact allergy to ragweed, mugwort, arnica, calendula, feverfew, or other Compositae plants may experience allergic contact dermatitis from chamomile extract; sesquiterpene lactones are the principal class allergen. Patch-test studies in sesquiterpene-lactone-mix-positive patients show high cross-reactivity rates to German chamomile flower extract (e.g., 30/35 patients positive at 100% aqueous; per CIR FR 2016 review of provocative testing data).
Herniarin (7-methoxycoumarin) is a documented non-sesquiterpene-lactone sensitizer in German chamomile, distinct from the Compositae-mix screen; patch testing with chamomile extract directly may be needed to identify this sensitization route.
Chamomile from Argentine sources may contain elevated anthecotulide (a strongly allergenic sesquiterpene lactone) and may be contaminated with dog fennel; European-sourced chamomile contains only trace anthecotulide. Geographic origin and supplier matter for sensitization risk.
CIR conditional approval (SQ) requires formulators to verify the finished formulation is non-sensitizing — the safety verdict does not extend to formulations that release sensitizing constituents above tolerated thresholds. Particularly relevant for high-concentration applications (cuticle softeners, leave-on serums) and for products co-formulating multiple Compositae extracts.
Distinct from Roman chamomile (Anthemis nobilis / Chamaemelum nobile) — different species, different CIR assessment, different sensitization profile. INCI must be matched precisely; substitution between German and Roman chamomile is not safety-equivalent.
CIR Quick Reference Table (September 2022) — Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract row: Finding=SQ, Citation=Final Report 6/201…
“Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract | SQ | The CIR Expert Panel concluded that the following cosmetic ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics, described in this safety assessment, when formulated to be non-sensitizing...Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract... | Final Report 6/2016 Available from CIR”— QuickReferenceTable_AllConclusionTypes.pdf, p. 118 (Chamomilla Recutita section)