Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Also known as Licorice Root Extract, Licorice Extract, Glycyrrhiza Root Extract
“CIR Expert Panel says: safe as used in cosmetics.”
The CIR Expert Panel assessed Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract as Safe (Finding=S, no conditions) in cosmetic use, citing the Final Report 9/2008. The 9/2008 group assessment covered multiple Glycyrrhiza species — G. glabra, G. inflata, and G. uralensis — each named individually in the QRT, but Glabra is the most common 'standard licorice' source. Glabra's chemistry centers on glabridin (an isoflavane unique to G. glabra; G. inflata's signature constituent is licochalcone A), which inhibits melanogenesis via tyrosinase suppression and reduces UVB-induced erythema/pigmentation in animal models at 0.5% topical (PMID 9870547). The 2008 group report concluded cosmetic exposure to licorice constituents is far lower than dietary exposure and dermal penetration is limited. A 2020 clinical review (PMID 31874059) confirmed strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, and anti-allergenic profiles for licorice root; chronic systemic toxicity (hypokalemia, hypertension from glycyrrhizin) is not relevant at topical cosmetic use levels.
Skin brightening / anti-melanogenic: glabridin inhibits tyrosinase isozymes T1 and T3; reduces UVB-induced pigmentation at 0.5% in animal models
Anti-inflammatory: glabridin suppresses superoxide anion production and cyclooxygenase activity; glycyrrhizin provides anti-inflammatory comparable to 1% hydrocortisone acetate in UV-erythema tests
Soothing / antioxidant: whole extract scavenges reactive oxygen species; used in sensitive-skin and redness-reduction formulations
Botanical complexity: extract contains dozens of compounds (glycyrrhizin/glycyrrhizic acid, glabridin, liquiritin, isoliquiritin, flavonoids) — CIR assessed the whole extract, not isolated constituents
Plant: Glycyrrhiza glabra L., family Fabaceae; principal active constituents are glycyrrhizin (triterpene saponin) and glabridin (isoflavan)
- · Glycyrrhizin systemic toxicity (hypokalemia, hypertension) documented at oral doses; not relevant at cosmetic topical concentrations given low dermal penetration
- · Rare reports of contact allergy to licorice derivatives — very low incidence in cosmetic use
CIR Quick Reference Table (September 2022) — Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract row: Finding=S, Citation=Final Report 9/2008 Avai…
“Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract S Final Report 9/2008 Available from CIR”— QuickReferenceTable_AllConclusionTypes.pdf, p. 205