Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract
Also known as Chinese Licorice Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza inflata Extract, Inflated Licorice Root Extract
“CIR Expert Panel says: safe as used in cosmetics.”
The CIR Expert Panel assessed Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract as Safe (Finding=S, no conditions) in cosmetic use, citing the Final Report 9/2008. The 2008 group assessment covered three Glycyrrhiza species — G. inflata, G. glabra, and G. uralensis — each named individually as separate INCI rows in the QRT. G. inflata's signature constituent is licochalcone A (a chalcone), which is distinct from G. glabra's glabridin (an isoflavane). Licochalcone A demonstrates potent anti-inflammatory activity in vitro (IC50 ~15 nM for IL-1beta-induced PGE2 inhibition in human skin fibroblasts) and in vivo (significant reduction in xylene-induced ear edema and carrageenan-induced paw edema in mice; PMID 18669021). Topical clinical evidence (PMID 16552540) shows highly significant reduction in post-shaving and UV-induced erythema vs vehicle, supporting use in soothing/sensitive-skin formulations. Mechanism includes COX-2 inhibition, NF-kB suppression, and reduced cytokine/PGE2 production.
Anti-inflammatory: licochalcone A inhibits IL-1beta-induced PGE2 production in human skin fibroblasts (IC50 ~15 nM); suppresses COX-2 expression and NF-kB activation
Soothing / anti-erythema: topical formulations significantly reduce post-shaving irritation and UV-induced redness in clinical studies
Used in sensitive-skin, post-procedure, anti-redness, and rosacea-targeted cosmetic formulations
Distinct from G. glabra: signature constituent is licochalcone A (chalcone class), not glabridin (isoflavane class found in G. glabra) — different molecular target profile though both species share whole-extract CIR safety verdict
Plant: Glycyrrhiza inflata Batalin, family Fabaceae; native to Xinjiang region of China; one of three Pharmacopoeia-recognized licorice species along with G. glabra and G. uralensis
- · Glycyrrhizin systemic toxicity (hypokalemia, hypertension) documented at oral doses; not relevant at cosmetic topical concentrations given low dermal penetration
- · Rare reports of contact allergy to licorice derivatives — very low incidence in cosmetic use
CIR Quick Reference Table (September 2022) — Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract row: Finding=S, Citation=Final Report 9/2008 Available from…
“Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract S Final Report 9/2008 Available from CIR”— QuickReferenceTable_AllConclusionTypes.pdf, p. 205