Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract
Also known as Ivy extract, English ivy extract, Hedera helix extract, Common ivy extract
“No regulator has issued a verdict on this ingredient.”
Hedera helix (English ivy) extract is a botanical cosmetic ingredient marketed for anti-cellulite, firming, anti-inflammatory, and microcirculation-promoting claims, attributed to its triterpene saponins (alpha-hederin, beta-hederin, hederasaponins, hederagenin) and polyphenols. CIR has not assessed Hedera helix as of 2026 — the ingredient is absent from the December 2017/July 2018, September 2022, October 2024, and current QRT versions. Active cosmetic-relevant efficacy evidence is weak: the most-cited topical efficacy data come from multi-ingredient anti-cellulite gel trials (e.g., Dupont et al. 2014) where Hedera helix is one of several actives, making it impossible to attribute effects to ivy specifically. The dominant safety signal is well-documented allergic contact dermatitis: the polyacetylenic compounds falcarinol and didehydrofalcarinol (Hausen 1987, PMID 3652685) are present year-round in ivy and act as powerful irritants and moderate-to-strong sensitizers. Gafner et al.'s human maximization test (1988, PMID 3180778) sensitized 10/20 subjects to 5% falcarinol; on retest, 7 subjects reacted at 0.05% with 3 showing severe bullous (3+ to 4+) reactions. Paulsen et al.'s 2010 European review (PMID 20236156) found 7.9% positive patch-test rate to falcarinol 0.03% petrolatum in 127 Danish dermatitis-clinic patients and documented 28 new ivy-dermatitis cases over 1994-2009. The same allergens are present in other Araliaceae (ginseng, Schefflera) and the closely related Apiaceae family.
Triterpene saponin content (alpha-hederin, beta-hederin, hederacoside C, hederagenin) provides surfactant-like activity and putative anti-elastase/anti-hyaluronidase activity proposed as the mechanism for cosmetic firming and microcirculation claims.
Polyphenols and flavonoids contribute antioxidant capacity to the extract.
Plant: Hedera helix L. (Araliaceae family); cosmetic INCI most commonly sourced from leaf, leaf/stem, or whole-plant ethanolic or hydroglycolic extracts.
Documented contact allergen: falcarinol and didehydrofalcarinol — polyacetylenic constituents present year-round in Hedera helix — are powerful irritants and moderate-to-strong sensitizers (Hausen 1987, PMID 3652685). Falcarinol elicited strong patch-test reactions in all 4 tested patients at 0.03% concentration; one researcher became sensitized during the original investigation.
Sensitization risk quantified: human maximization test sensitized 10/20 subjects to 5% falcarinol from Hedera helix; on rechallenge, 7 subjects reacted at 0.05% with 3 displaying severe bullous (3+ to 4+) reactions (Gafner et al. 1988, PMID 3180778). Sensitivity threshold can be as low as 0.03-0.05% in pre-sensitized individuals.
European patch-test prevalence: 7.9% of 127 Danish dermatitis-clinic patients tested positive to falcarinol 0.03% petrolatum; 28 new ivy contact-dermatitis cases documented across Europe 1994-2009 (Paulsen et al. 2010, PMID 20236156). Authors note ivy dermatitis is likely under-diagnosed due to limited commercial availability of falcarinol patch-test allergen.
Cross-reactivity with Araliaceae and Apiaceae families: falcarinol is widely distributed in the ivy family (Hedera, Schefflera, Panax/ginseng) and the closely related Apiaceae (carrot family); patients sensitized to one Araliaceae member may react to Hedera helix and vice versa.
No CIR safety assessment exists for Hedera helix as of 2026 (verified absent from 2017/2018, Sept 2022, Oct 2024, and current QRTs); extract is general-inventory in cosmetic formulations with no formulation-condition guidance from the Expert Panel.
Marketing claims (anti-cellulite, firming, microcirculation, lymphatic drainage) rest on multi-ingredient cosmetic trials (e.g., Dupont et al. 2014, PMID 24600240) where Hedera helix is one of several actives — single-ingredient topical efficacy data for the cosmetic-relevant claims are sparse.
Constituent profile varies substantially with extraction solvent (water, glycerin, propylene glycol, ethanol, supercritical CO2) and plant-part source (leaf vs leaf/stem vs whole-plant); falcarinol concentration and resulting sensitization potential differ by preparation.