Madecassoside
Also known as Madecassoside, Asiaticoside A, Centella asiatica triterpene saponin
“No regulator has issued a verdict on this ingredient.”
Madecassoside, a pentacyclic triterpenoid saponin purified from Centella asiatica, has a moderate published safety and efficacy profile at concentrations relevant to cosmetic use. Cell-based studies demonstrate anti-inflammatory activity (inhibition of IL-1β, TLR2, and NF-κB), enhanced skin hydration via aquaporin-3 and hyaluronan upregulation, and non-cytotoxicity up to 500 ppm (Hou et al. 2016). CIR has not issued a standalone safety assessment for madecassoside as a cosmetic ingredient; the 2015 CIR group report on Centella asiatica-derived ingredients covers whole-plant extracts and cell cultures only, not this isolated triterpene.
Anti-inflammatory: significantly inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1β, TLR2, and nuclear translocation of NF-κB in P. acnes-stimulated keratinocytes
Skin hydration: increases aquaporin-3, loricrin, and involucrin expression and stimulates hyaluronan secretion in dermal fibroblasts
Wound healing: promotes burn wound healing in animal models; compounds non-cytotoxic up to 500 ppm
Enhanced dermal delivery: liposomal encapsulation of madecassoside significantly improves transdermal permeation and in vivo burn wound healing efficacy
- · Contact dermatitis reported with madecassol (topical madecassoside-containing preparation): Eun & Lee, Contact Dermatitis 1985;13(5):310-313, cited in CIR 2015 group report
Contact sensitization potential at higher concentrations: the 2015 CIR Centella asiatica group report references an industry sensitization/cutaneous compatibility study of a mascara containing 0.5% madecassoside (ref 45 in centel062015FR.pdf), suggesting sensitization risk warrants evaluation at elevated concentrations