Tocopheryl Acetate
Also known as Vitamin E acetate, alpha-Tocopheryl acetate, dl-alpha-Tocopheryl acetate, (+/-)-alpha-Tocopherol acetate
“CIR Expert Panel says: safe as used in cosmetics.”
Tocopheryl Acetate (alpha-tocopheryl acetate; dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate; vitamin E acetate; CAS 7695-91-2; C31H52O3) is the acetate ester of tocopherol, a lipid-soluble antioxidant derivative of vitamin E. Unlike free tocopherol, the acetate ester is chemically stable during formulation and storage — the 6-hydroxyl group is protected by the acetate, which prevents oxidation of the chromanol ring and extends shelf life. In the skin, tocopheryl acetate is slowly hydrolyzed by endogenous esterases to release free alpha-tocopherol, which then exerts its antioxidant activity. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel assessed Tocopheryl Acetate together with Tocopherol and 12 other tocopherol/tocotrienol ingredients in the same review — originally in 2002 (Int J Toxicol 21(S3):51-116) and amended in March 2014 to include additional tocopherol esters and tocotrienols. The published version is Fiume, Bergfeld, Belsito et al., Int J Toxicol 37(2 Suppl):61S-94S, 2018 (PMID 30235959). The Panel concluded that Tocopheryl Acetate and the other 13 tocopherol/tocotrienol ingredients are safe as used in cosmetics. Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly used in leave-on cosmetic formulations at 0.5-1% as both an antioxidant (protecting labile formulation components during shelf life) and a skin conditioning active. It is also FDA GRAS as a food-grade vitamin E source and widely used in multivitamin supplements. The QRT row carries no conditions or concentration limits.
Stable ester form of vitamin E — resistant to oxidation in the bottle, unlike free tocopherol which can oxidize and lose activity during product shelf life
Slowly hydrolyzed by skin esterases to release free alpha-tocopherol, which then provides the lipid-peroxyl-radical scavenging antioxidant activity of vitamin E on and in the stratum corneum
Commonly paired with ascorbic acid derivatives in antioxidant serums: the vitamin C/vitamin E combination is synergistic because ascorbate regenerates oxidized tocopherol
CIR Expert Panel concluded safe as used in cosmetics across the 2002 original, 2014 amended, and 2018 published assessments (Fiume et al., IJT 2018, PMID 30235959) — same assessment covers 13 additional tocopherol and tocotrienol ingredients
FDA GRAS as a food-grade vitamin E source; long history of safe dietary and topical use
Rare contact dermatitis reports exist in the patch-test literature, most often associated with high-concentration post-procedure applications to compromised skin rather than normal cosmetic use at 0.5-1% on healthy skin
Slower-acting than free tocopherol as an antioxidant because the ester must first be hydrolyzed by skin esterases — but more stable in the finished product, which is why it is the preferred vitamin E form for most cosmetic formulations
CIR Quick Reference Table (12/2017, revised 07/2018) - Tocopheryl Acetate row: Finding 'S' (Safe), Citation 'IJT 21(S3):51-116, 2002; Fin…
“Tocopheryl Acetate | S | [no detail column entry] | IJT 21(S3):51-116, 2002; Final report 03/2014 available from CIR”— QRT-122017revised072018.pdf, p. 133